Robotech® RPG Tactics info spot

For all talk related to Robotech RPG Tactics™. A strategic, tactical board game brought to you by Palladium Books®, Ninja Division® and Harmony Gold®

Moderators: Phaze, Immortals, Supreme Beings, Old Ones

User avatar
ZINO
Knight
Posts: 4060
Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2008 5:02 pm
Comment: NEVER QUIT..... I got lucky
Location: new york

Robotech® RPG Tactics info spot

Unread post by ZINO »

Robotech® RPG Tactics info spot

well I was thinking if you have any ideas you want shares post here
how to glue miniatures or have a youtude related that will help gamers and even me it been a long time 4 years that i am doing game board
post here
let all help out each other how to paint the miniatures
what not to do
post links and comment come all let all join in hold hand use use our guns pods missiles and laser to fight the good fight and have fun
news about Robotech® RPG Tactics
let your YES be YES and your NO be NO but plz no maybe
User avatar
silvermoon383
Wanderer
Posts: 83
Joined: Fri Aug 24, 2012 3:31 pm

Re: Robotech® RPG Tactics info spot

Unread post by silvermoon383 »

Here are some of the things I've learned to do when painting and assembling Flames of War miniatures (which are made from either pewter or plastic):

1. Upon opening the blister/box, wash everything. I close the drain in the sink, fill with water, pour in a little soap, then swirl everything around for a minute. Towel dry. This will get rid of any manufacturing dust that may have remained.

2. Get a good set of hobby clips for getting flash (extra little slivers of material that seeped through the mould seam or overflowed the injection point) and any little remainder from the sprue (the frame pieces are sometimes attached to) off. Files can be used when it's a flat spot, but clips are best to avoid ruining details.

3. Prime, prime, prime! There are 3 colors of primer: black, grey, and white. If you're going for a darker look, use black, lighter: white. Grey is neutral won't change the paint colors terribly much (this is my primer of choice). This includes the bases.

4. When preparing bases, use a hobby knife to make a few cuts on the base before priming. This will help with the glue later on, flat surfaces and mini-model glues don't always get along.

5. Use Elmers or "white/school" glue to glue the minis to a popsicle stick for painting. This provides a nice temporary base for painting purposes, and when you're all done the minis will pop right off.

6. Start with the base color, painting everything in it. Then switch to the next most common color, and work your way up through the detail scale.

7. If you use aerosols for painting (like when priming or topcoating with a clear-coat at the end), don't hose the figures down, instead use short sweeping motions, this will prevent heavy buildup (unless you keep sweeping across the same place every time of course :lol: )

8. Never rush. Rushing causes problems.

9. Try not to mix metallic paints with non-metallics, even with the water cup. Metallics contain little particles that can easily contaminate the nons.

10. Don't paint straight from the paint jar, pour some onto a pallatte first, this will prevent the entire batch from being contaminated. Feel free to water down the paint too, many paints come a little too thick or with too heavy a pigment load to be totally usable right out of the jar.

That's what I can think of so far, sadly for decals you're on your own :P Battlefront Miniatures has a pretty good youtube channel where they demonstrate some pretty useful techniques.
User avatar
glitterboy2098
Rifts® Trivia Master
Posts: 13318
Joined: Wed Aug 06, 2003 3:37 pm
Location: Missouri
Contact:

Re: Robotech® RPG Tactics info spot

Unread post by glitterboy2098 »

10a: Shake your paint before using.. pigments tend to settle when they sit on the shelf, shaking makes the color more even.

and i'd suggest using Acrylic paints.. they are water based so they are easy to thin out, and they tend to go on smoother and thinner than enamels. Enamels need paint thinner, and even then tend to go on very thick and cover up details on the figure.
Author of Rifts: Deep Frontier (Rifter 70)
Author of Rifts:Scandinavia (current project)
Image
* All fantasy should have a solid base in reality.
* Good sense about trivialities is better than nonsense about things that matter.

-Max Beerbohm
Visit my Website
User avatar
Shawn Merrow
Palladium Books® Freelance Writer
Posts: 2493
Joined: Sat Sep 30, 2000 1:01 am
Comment: For the glory of Zeon and Zerebus, Sieg Zeon!

2D6 Palladium Forum History Geek Points
Location: Pasco, WA, USA
Contact:

Re: Robotech® RPG Tactics info spot

Unread post by Shawn Merrow »

Also you don't need to use the more expensive paints marketed for miniatures. I have used craft store Acrylic paints with no problem. They can be found in hobby stores and even Walmart in the crafts section. As for primers always favored auto-motive flat primers and they are also easy to find.
Image

"Flandre, no Molotov cocktails indoors, please." - Hime from Princess Resurrection
User avatar
Alpha 11
Palladin
Posts: 8227
Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2005 4:14 pm
Location: Northwood, ND

Re: Robotech® RPG Tactics info spot

Unread post by Alpha 11 »

Thanks for the info!
User avatar
glitterboy2098
Rifts® Trivia Master
Posts: 13318
Joined: Wed Aug 06, 2003 3:37 pm
Location: Missouri
Contact:

Re: Robotech® RPG Tactics info spot

Unread post by glitterboy2098 »

Shawn Merrow wrote:Also you don't need to use the more expensive paints marketed for miniatures. I have used craft store Acrylic paints with no problem. They can be found in hobby stores and even Walmart in the crafts section. As for primers always favored auto-motive flat primers and they are also easy to find.


some of the specialty ones work pretty well if your looking for a particular shade (like say, WW2 japanese camo colors, or such), but if your just looking for basic color palettes the cheap stuff is fine. give it a quick wash or dip and no one will be able to tell. :)
Last edited by glitterboy2098 on Fri Oct 18, 2013 3:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
Author of Rifts: Deep Frontier (Rifter 70)
Author of Rifts:Scandinavia (current project)
Image
* All fantasy should have a solid base in reality.
* Good sense about trivialities is better than nonsense about things that matter.

-Max Beerbohm
Visit my Website
User avatar
Shawn Merrow
Palladium Books® Freelance Writer
Posts: 2493
Joined: Sat Sep 30, 2000 1:01 am
Comment: For the glory of Zeon and Zerebus, Sieg Zeon!

2D6 Palladium Forum History Geek Points
Location: Pasco, WA, USA
Contact:

Re: Robotech® RPG Tactics info spot

Unread post by Shawn Merrow »

I was lucky and was showed how to paint by some long time wargamers. The nice thing with Robotech there is no Robotech Blue or other special colors.
Image

"Flandre, no Molotov cocktails indoors, please." - Hime from Princess Resurrection
User avatar
glitterboy2098
Rifts® Trivia Master
Posts: 13318
Joined: Wed Aug 06, 2003 3:37 pm
Location: Missouri
Contact:

Re: Robotech® RPG Tactics info spot

Unread post by glitterboy2098 »

mainly i was thinking of stuff like the "Army painter" line.. where you can get paint in specific color shades and sets to do various forms of WW2 camouflage, like japanese armor and infantry (a peculiar shade of grey-yellow-green for the armor, and a kind of unique yellowy-tan for the infantry uniforms..), or German 'field grey' (a kind of greenish grey), etc.
their basic colors aren't much better than regular craft paint.. but sometimes if you have a particular shade in mind it is easier to buy a premade version of it than to try and keep your color mixes consistent across multiple batches.
Author of Rifts: Deep Frontier (Rifter 70)
Author of Rifts:Scandinavia (current project)
Image
* All fantasy should have a solid base in reality.
* Good sense about trivialities is better than nonsense about things that matter.

-Max Beerbohm
Visit my Website
User avatar
Kryptt
Adventurer
Posts: 583
Joined: Fri Oct 18, 2013 11:55 am
Comment: Macross fan first
Robotech fan second
Location: On board the Dixon covering my squads back

Re: Robotech® RPG Tactics info spot

Unread post by Kryptt »

GH05T wrote:Thanks for the info.

What about gluing over top of painted surfaces? The first few models I completed, and only, so many years ago fell apart because of this. Granted I was using poor materials, but how does paint/primer affect the surfaces where you will be gluing the models together?


That's a major no no, even with good paint. Unless your going to pin the part, then I could see it working that way.
User avatar
Carl Gleba
Palladium Books® Freelance Writer
Posts: 3173
Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2000 1:01 am
Comment: Lord of Chaos!
Location: Rome, NY USA

Re: Robotech® RPG Tactics info spot

Unread post by Carl Gleba »

Great information :ok: Everything stated is spot and is what I was taught or figured out over the years.

The Elemer's glue and popsicle stick were new to me. I use the blue sticky/tacky stuff and use that and a plastic bottle cap from a soda bottle.

I converted a fishing/tackle box into storage for my paints and supplies. This makes the whole think portable and when I open it I can see all my paints and supplies and can easily access them.
ImageImage
User avatar
silvermoon383
Wanderer
Posts: 83
Joined: Fri Aug 24, 2012 3:31 pm

Re: Robotech® RPG Tactics info spot

Unread post by silvermoon383 »

Carl Gleba wrote:The Elemer's glue and popsicle stick were new to me. I use the blue sticky/tacky stuff and use that and a plastic bottle cap from a soda bottle.

Honestly, I'm not 100% certain that it'd work with plastic minis, my usual minis game (Flames of War) has historically used pewter, and is slowly converting to plastic, with none of the stuff I've gotten from them being the new types. If I get some I'll do a test and see if it works.
User avatar
Warshield73
Megaversal® Ambassador
Posts: 5110
Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 1:23 am
Comment: "I will not be silenced. I will not submit. I will find the truth and shout it to the world. "
Location: Houston, TX

Re: Robotech® RPG Tactics info spot

Unread post by Warshield73 »

This is the part that I am most worried about, I have never painted minis before. Any suggestions for how to correct painting errors?

How about links to good youtube vids on painting this type of mini?
Northern Gun Chief of Robotics
Designer of NG-X40 Storm Hammer Power Armor & NG-HC1000 Dragonfly Hover Chopper
Big game hunter, explorer extra ordinaire and expert on the Aegis Buffalo
Ultimate Insider for WB 32: Lemuria, WB 33: Northern Gun 1, WB 34: Northern Gun 2
Showdown Backer Robotech RPG Tactics
Benefactor Insider Rifts Bestiary: Vol 1, Rifts Bestiary: Vol 2
User avatar
Carl Gleba
Palladium Books® Freelance Writer
Posts: 3173
Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2000 1:01 am
Comment: Lord of Chaos!
Location: Rome, NY USA

Re: Robotech® RPG Tactics info spot

Unread post by Carl Gleba »

I had some fellow gamers teach me all I know, but a lot just comes with practice and trying new techniques. Try and look up "dry brushing" and "washing" or "wash" on goggle and you might be able to find a you tube video. I'll try and explain below.

I'm no expert by the way. I've been painting mini's on an off for 15 years, but I am not at the level your typical war gamer. So here goes.

For dry brushing I take one of my frazzled brushes, dip it in the paint and pinch it between some paper towel to get the really wet stuff off. This leaves some paint on the brush and then you lightly and quickly brush over a section. Raised section will pick up the color and this help little details stand out. Dry brushing is on of the last thinks you do to a mini and it should already have most of its base coats on.

I'm still working on my washing techniques. This uses a paint that actually says "wash" Black wash, armor wash, brown wash and so on. Wash ink is almost like water and really thin paint. You use wash to fill in the fine lines nooks and crannies. Here is an example of a pieces that really worked for me.

I had a mini with chain mail. I would do a armor wash as the base coat to fill in all the little holes and then use silver or another armor color and dry brush after the wash dried. This combo usually looks pretty good.

Another example is what I'm working on now. I have the Shadow Beast. I gave it a base coat of shadow grey. I'll try and dry brush black on the fur and face. I'll see how this looks and maybe dry brush different grays to see how it looks.

Don't be afraid to experiment. You can always prime over it again and start over. Or buy some other mini's and get a little practice in.
ImageImage
User avatar
glitterboy2098
Rifts® Trivia Master
Posts: 13318
Joined: Wed Aug 06, 2003 3:37 pm
Location: Missouri
Contact:

Re: Robotech® RPG Tactics info spot

Unread post by glitterboy2098 »

Youtube has some painting how to's.. just search for "painting miniatures" and you'll find hundreds of ones, for all scale and skill levels.
Author of Rifts: Deep Frontier (Rifter 70)
Author of Rifts:Scandinavia (current project)
Image
* All fantasy should have a solid base in reality.
* Good sense about trivialities is better than nonsense about things that matter.

-Max Beerbohm
Visit my Website
User avatar
Shawn Merrow
Palladium Books® Freelance Writer
Posts: 2493
Joined: Sat Sep 30, 2000 1:01 am
Comment: For the glory of Zeon and Zerebus, Sieg Zeon!

2D6 Palladium Forum History Geek Points
Location: Pasco, WA, USA
Contact:

Re: Robotech® RPG Tactics info spot

Unread post by Shawn Merrow »

Warshield73 wrote:This is the part that I am most worried about, I have never painted minis before. Any suggestions for how to correct painting errors?


The nice part about sticking to water based paints is they are not that hard to remove. If you catch it fast enough water will take off the error. If you need to strip the paint completely off a piece I have found Pinesol to be effective. It removes oil and water based paints but does not harm either metal or plastic miniatures.

Carl Gleba wrote:I'm still working on my washing techniques. This uses a paint that actually says "wash" Black wash, armor wash, brown wash and so on. Wash ink is almost like water and really thin paint. You use wash to fill in the fine lines nooks and crannies. Here is an example of a pieces that really worked for me.


I was taught to take a dark color and just water it down to make a wash.
Image

"Flandre, no Molotov cocktails indoors, please." - Hime from Princess Resurrection
User avatar
ZINO
Knight
Posts: 4060
Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2008 5:02 pm
Comment: NEVER QUIT..... I got lucky
Location: new york

Re: Robotech® RPG Tactics info spot

Unread post by ZINO »

any more ideas post them here,TY for your help
>)
let your YES be YES and your NO be NO but plz no maybe
User avatar
The Galactus Kid
Palladium Books® Freelance Writer
Posts: 8800
Joined: Tue Jul 20, 2004 4:45 pm
Comment: THE SPLICE MUST FLOW!!!
Location: Working on getting Splicers more support!!!
Contact:

Re: Robotech® RPG Tactics info spot

Unread post by The Galactus Kid »

glitterboy2098 wrote:
Shawn Merrow wrote:Also you don't need to use the more expensive paints marketed for miniatures. I have used craft store Acrylic paints with no problem. They can be found in hobby stores and even Walmart in the crafts section. As for primers always favored auto-motive flat primers and they are also easy to find.


some of the specialty ones work pretty well if your looking for a particular shade (like say, WW2 japanese camo colors, or such), but if your just looking for basic color palettes the cheap stuff is fine. give it a quick wash or dip and no one will be able to tell. :)

WASH!!!

I use Vallejo Smoke dilluted with some water and then apply it generously on some of my minis. The wash goes into the small details of the minis and leaves pigment there. It really makes my minis look better than I could have done normally. I'm no painter, but they look great on the tabletop.
Image
Ziggurat the Eternal wrote:I'm not sure if its possible, but if it isn't, then possible will just have to get over it.

Ninjabunny wrote:You are playing to have fun and be a part of a story,no one is aiming to "beat" the GM, nor should any GM be looking to beat his players.

Marrowlight wrote: The Shameless Plug would be a good new account name for you. 8-)

ALAshbaugh wrote:Because DINOSAURS.
Post Reply

Return to “Robotech RPG Tactics™”